Week 4

Feminism

The Image of Women in Design

There are many issues that have and are still confronting women in the art and design world. Throughout history a woman was often seen as the muse for an artwork not the artist, it took a lot for a woman to do her own thing away from her family. Often a smart and successful women was embarrassing for a family back in the day. In the past woman were repressed under their father or their husband so that they were able to keep ahead or above. 


There was and sometimes still is a submission of women to men depending on their cultural background, upbringing and beliefs. Chivalry used to showcase a mans class and manners but these days it can be taken either way, as being polite or using charm for other intentions. Women are conscious of how history has shaped them and many today have the confidence to stand on their own, although the tradition of marrying and taking care of a household is still quite close to their desires. 


Some of the examples we went through in class have helped explore the issue of feminism faced in the design world.


The article on 'Helene Gordon-Lazareff', the Russian-born designer of Elle French magazine, who made high fashion accessible to everyone of every class through the humour and fun in her magazine. Helene was a woman who broke the mould of tradition for women of her time. 

http://louveciennestribune.typepad.com/media/cultureloisirs/

The start of feminism or the emphasis came during the war when women stepped into the workplace to do the mens jobs and keep progress while they were away fighting the war. Once they returned men assumed that women would just give up their jobs and go back to maintaining the household. Although women enjoyed working and stood up for their right to work and be noticed as a person not just a wife.


 After the war had ended society was very optimistic, Helene with her charm started a preface. The ground breaking magazine was extremely popular and taught women how to use the way men looked and liked them to get what they desire. She wasn't much of a feminist, mainly because she believed women already had equality.

http://ipjblog.com/lapressemagazine/elle/

 Her magazine had a unique look, a swiss inspired style with colour (which was a huge innovation of the time) yet the magazine wasn't just popular for its look. The look and style created an attitude that everyone loved, an attitude that didn't make women feel inferior like most magazines did, with the models and articles. Helene employed Knapp as art director who with Helene's support developed an elegant grid system, a restrained sans-serif typography, and a bold layout. This is what worked and stayed over the years.

http://www.retromag.com/indexa/elle_magazine.html

http://www.letranalumni.org/index.php?option=com_awiki&view=mediawiki&article=Elle_(magazine)?qsrc=3044

These days it has been said that the weekly 'Elle' magazine "looks more like a monthly" (Knapp) without the spontaneous approach that the early days had. It was an innovative magazine and style at the time, it has just outgrown it's era. 


Also the comic 'Blondie' or 'Dagwood', a famous strip about a traditional family. The mother takes care of the house, the children and the husband, who is always having troubles at work or trouble with something.

 It is sentimental and humorous, this is where it appeals to its audience. Although these days it isn't as popular as it once was, when it appealed to almost every family making light of frustrating situations within a family. It is a good comic, well thought out but again it doesn't resonate with people today.

http://www.crazedfanboy.com/nolansnewsstand02/laflapcr139.html

The Marshall McLuhan article on 'Woman in a mirror', basically describes what most advertising did. They would juxtapose images to 'say' what they couldn't under certain censorship laws. Coming down to it, throughout history and into modern society, sex sells. Be it innocent modelling contrasted with another image and an added subtlety to win the viewer or the 'in-your-face' approach many advertisements have today. 


The subtlety that is talked about in the article was an new ingenious way to sell their product and gain appeal for future advertisements. Some may say that advertising exploits, yet the world is over run my consumerist and materialistic values which has forced the continuation of the 'exploitation'.


Advertising today has not really helped women in the fight for equality, not only advertising products but also promoting famous people like Paris Hilton or Lady Gaga, seem to allow a few back steps for the feminist revolution. Although these women know how to use what they have to offer to get what they desire in life - similar to Helene's advice to women of her day.